In summer 2003, we went to Scotland, to our favourite place, but I didn't tell you where it was. Now, I'm prepared to, because I want to tell you about a triumph: we climbed Beinn Dearg.
There are 284 Munros — mountains over 3000 feet in Scotland. Sir Hugh Munro originally listed 277, but there's been inflation. The list still doesn't include Torridon's Beinn Dearg which, at 2999 feet, is officially the highest non-Munro. Munro-baggers are a focused bunch. With 284 mountains to tick off, they can't afford to waste time climbing anything less than 3000 feet. Never mind that some Munros are extremely boring slogs up tedious slopes in the middle of nowhere, and that some sub-3000 foot mountains are real challenges with spectacular views. To the dedicated Munroist, 3000 feet is all.
So the Munro-bagger doesn't care about Beinn Dearg (pronounced Jerrag). But we do. We first saw it 33 years ago, lurking behind Torridon's more well-known hills. It's very steep on all sides, except round the back. There it's merely steep, but a long way to get to.
We took it on direct: up between the gullies on the south-west corner. It was an hour and half to the foot of the gullies, first on a good path, then over firm moorland. We drank coffee and peered up, picking what looked a safe route. Was it on? Yes. It was, simply, the most exhilarating climb we've ever done. There's no rock; it's mostly grass and heather, with some scree. But it is very steep, 409 metres of climbing in 570 metres: an average gradient of 36 degrees. Our walking poles, shortened to dig into the ground ahead, were invaluable. As we tackled a stream crossing half way up, where the gradient was especially steep, we became aware of a stag above us on a crag. He edged forward to watch us, wondering what we were doing in his domain. A fighter jet screeched through the glen, hundreds of feet below us, and frightened him away.
Eventually, the gradient slackened slightly. A few more steps and we'd made it: an easy stroll now to the summit.
OK, there are plenty of you out there who have climbed vertical rockfaces, and struggled through Himalayan snowdrifts. But we're just ordinary walkers. We each have our triumphs, and Beinn Dearg is one of ours. And you Munroists, if Napoleon had won, there would have been fewer Munros anyway: there's nothing magic about 915 metres.
- © British Journal of General Practice, 2005.
